There’s a pitiless joke about Bratislava, which I hope most Bratislavans haven’t heard: “What’s the best thing to do in Bratislava?” “Visit Vienna.” And while Vienna does have quite a lot of elegance and plenty of museums to engage visitors, humble Bratislava, just 50 miles down the Danube River, has charm of its own.
Bratislava became Slovakia’s capital in 1993, as Czechoslovakia broke apart, but its history stretches back long before. Known as Pozsony, it was the coronation site and capital of the Kingdom of Hungary between 1536 and 1783. Although the city’s history (filled with Hungarians, Germans, Slovaks, and various other groups) can be a bit confusing for our modern, border-loving brains, Bratislava still has something that we all crave in a European city—a small, picturesque Old Town.
Starting at the Danube’s edge, the Old Town winds north up the hilly terrain along Ventúrska and a main square, Hlavné Námestie. To one side of the square is the Bratislava City Museum, which is worth stopping in to learn about the city’s history. Also check what’s going on at Stará Tržnica, the Old Market Hall, which was built in 1910 and is the locale of a Saturday market, as well as other cool events.
North of the Old Town, is the Presidential Palace, where you can see the guard change at the hour, or continue north up Banksobystická Street to enjoy the park behind the Palace (if you need a refreshment, stop for a beer or coffee at hip Triplefive Roasters across the street) or continue a block further to Námestie Slobody (Freedom Square). The Square was recently revitalized to create a more pleasant public space.
East of Old Town you’ll find a more residential neighborhood that, in my opinion, feels the most interesting to explore. At least do a walk by of the Blue Church, which is consistently listed as one of the city’s top attractions. Then, stop by Otto! or another trendy coffee shop and mingle with the locals. Interestingly, I found that several cafes serve “American-Style” (read: giant) cinnamon rolls, with a variety of icings.
For more parks and greenery, head northwest to Horský Park or the adjacent Prügerka garden. You can stop by a local outdoor beer garden, Krčma Funus, afterwards for a beer and hot dog.
Many of the attractions in the city are close to each other and can be explored in a short amount of time. So, yes, Vienna’s Habsburgian riches can more easily fill a visitor’s time, but Bratislava is perfect for a 2-3 day trip, for anyone interested in exploring a unique city and eating plenty of bryndzové halušky (cheesy noodles).
TO LEARN:
- Bratislava City Museum: City museums are always a fascinating look into a city’s history and view of itself.
- Slavin: This is a giant Soviet Memorial that you can take a bus to; not sure that I recommend unless you love Soviet monuments.
- Devin Castle: Technically in the city, though it’s 12 km from the center, this is a 9th century castle with great views.
- Blue Church: The Church of St. Elizabeth is a major tourist attraction, so why not do a walk-by?
- Nedbalka Gallery: Art museum featuring Slovak artists in a Guggenheim-like building.
- Slovak National Gallery: As one recent Google review put it, “Special and decent art museum in Bratislava. It demonstrates many modern artworks. And if you don’t have enough time, you don’t need to visit here as it’s not worthwhile…”
TO EAT:
- U Sedliaka: Looking for traditional Slovak food? This could be a good option.
- Richtar Jakub: A spot for drinking beer outside the City’s center.
- Kláštorný Pivovar: Confusingly large, this must-visit giant restaurant/brewery was first used as a monastery.
- Otto!: Trendy breakfast spot that serves food and drinks all day.
- FACH: What a pretty bistro!
- Konditorei Kormuth: For those, like me, who are always interested in having cake, this confectionary has beautiful cakes, an extremely ornate interior, and is centrally located.
- Palacinka Lacinka: Crepes galore! Though further from the Old Town,
TRANSPORTATION:
- The city is small, but quite hilly. You can walk most places, but may want to consider taking public buses to a couple of destinations, like Slavin.
TO GET YOU IN THE MOOD:
- Three Chestnut Horses (book)
- Frankly, there are not a ton of options. This blog offers an excellent compilation of reviews of Slovak novels available in English.